We are seeing an increasing number of patients who are struggling with hair loss in the clinic. Chinese Medicine has been treating hair loss in men and women for thousands of years. It can help stop or slow further hair loss and also support regrowth.
Chinese Medicine View of Hair Loss
In Chinese Medicine, healthy hair is dependent on abundant flow of blood and Qi. It is said in the old Chinese texts that hair is the surplus of Blood. When there is a deficiency of either Qi or Blood (more often blood) or stagnation of Qi or Blood, the hair follicles aren’t able to receive the nourishment they need to grow healthy hair. Typically, blood and Qi deficiencies are caused by poor diet or digestive issues which prevent proper absorption of nutrients. Qi and Blood stagnation are often caused by stress or hormone imbalances (very common in perimenopause).
📸 : @steinportraits
Acupuncture improves the flow of Qi and Blood to the scalp and body to improve hair growth. Chinese herbs are often used to nourish the blood and Qi to prevent excess hair shedding. We usually recommend both herbs and acupuncture as well as nutritional and lifestyle modifications.
Top Recommendations for Hair Loss
Get Regular Acupuncture – acupuncture nourishes the Qi and Blood and increases Qi and Blood flow to the scalp to stimulates hair regrowth.
Get plenty of sleep – sleep is the time when yin and blood are most nourished in Chinese Medicine. Any issues of insomnia or poor sleep can ultimately cause more deficiency of blood and yin which affects hair. Focus on good sleep hygiene to allow for better rest.
Check for deficiencies of vitamins and thyroid irregularities – simple bloodwork with your doctor can rule out medical reasons for the hair loss. Hormonal changes, anemia (low iron), low B12 are all common causes for hair loss, especially found in vegetarians or vegans. Biotin (vitamin B7) is found in protein rich foods like organ meats, eggs, fish, meat, seeds, nuts, and certain vegetables (such as sweet potatoes). High doses of biotin can affect thyroid numbers on labwork so be sure to talk with your doctor if you want to supplement with biotin. Be sure to eat enough foods rich in Omega -3 like salmon, walnuts, and flaxseeds as well. Silica can also
Take Herbs Daily – there are a number of herbs and classic herbal formulas that have been used in Chinese Medicine for centuries to prevent hair loss.
He Shou Wu (Polygonium Multiflorum) – this herb, also known as Fo-Ti, is translated from Chinese to English as “The Black Haired Mr. He” meaning it prevents premature gray hair. It is used as a blood tonic and is recommended for almost everyone experiencing hair loss, no matter the reason.
Qi Bao Mei Ran Wan – this traditional Chinese Medicine formula is a wonderful blend of herbs for supporting the hair. It’s translation is “Seven Treasures for Beautiful Hair”. This formula is not a quick fix as it takes a while to build up your blood. Plan to commit to at least 3 months of this herb in order to really see the benefits. One bottle should last 7-10 days taken 3x/day.
Texas Medicinals Herbal Iron Syrup – this iron-rich syrup is formulated with mineralizing herbs to support the body (see the recommended teas below).
Floradix Iron + Herbs – This liquid iron supplement is easy on the stomach and full of mineral rich herbs to boost iron levels. It is easy to find at grocery stores in town or go to my online pharmacy to order.
Yina Lumidrops Collagen Gummies – these gummies contain Chinese herbs to support the kidneys and liver with vitamin C, lycopene, biotin, and free-range, grass-fed bovine collagen to help strengthen hair, improve skin elasticity, and promote energy.
Pearl powder by Root and Bones
Pearl Powder by Root and Bones – pearl powder promotes healthy, glowing skin, and accelerate cell regeneration. It is rich in calcium, zinc, amino acids and antioxidants like glutathione and SOD. It supports healthy collagen production and defends against oxidative stress.
Marine Collagen by Root and Bones – this ultra-absorbable blend of Type I, II, III & IV collagen is sourced from wild-caught deep-sea fish (cod, pollock, haddock) for maximum potency and bioavailability. Rich in amino acids that support skin elasticity, joint health, and connective tissue regeneration.
It also contains pearl powder, tremella mushroom extract and bamboo silica. Pearl powder is a natural source of calcium, magnesium, and over 30 trace minerals. Tremella mushroom extract hydrates the skin and support elasticity. Bamboo silica encourages collagen synthesis and promotes strong, healthy hair growth.
Do scalp massages regularly with hair oil – a daily scalp massage helps stimulate the scalp to encourage hair regrowth. I love using my gua sha tool (with the comb side). Gently wiggle it back and forth over the scalp for 5 minute in the morning and evening. For even better results, massage oil into scalp and then brush it through your hair. Leave it overnight (protect your linen because the herbs will easily stain sheets!) or at least 4 hours. Use 1x/week. My favorite hair oils are:
Using the scalp oil on hair. 📸: @thefullonmonet
Banyan Botanical Hair Oil – this oil contains sesame seed oil, coconut oil with ayurvedic herbs like bhringaraj (known as the “King Of Hair”, cabbage rose flower, hibiscus, gotu kola, and amla fruit. Massage oil into scalp and then brush it through your hair. Leave it overnight (protect linen because the herbs will stain sheets) or at least 4 hours. Use 1x/week.
Banyan Hair Serum – this serum combines lightweight oils with rosemary and lavender for more frequent use than the hair oil above. Use daily to promote healthy hair growth, nourish the scalp, and lock in moisture.
Manetain Ayurvedic Hair Oil – this wonderful hair oil is made by a local herbalist. It contains bhringaraj and amalaki as well as nettle and oat straw. Similar to other hair oils, it’s best as a once a week treatment.
Hair Therapy Oil – this oil is made by Jamila at her nearby salon, Jamila’s Salon. She doesn’t do online sales anymore but you can contact her to pick up.
Drink herbal teas regularly to nourish blood –teas can supplement the diet with added minerals to nourish the blood.
Nettle tea – contains essential minerals like zinc, magnesium, iron, and silica which are helpful for follicle health and keratin production. Nettle also contains vitamins A, C, and K, antioxidants and fatty acids to strengthen hair. Steep nettle for 10 minutes to extract the minerals.
Red raspberry leaf tea – not for use when pregnant or breastfeeding. It contains antioxidants like vitamin A and vitamin C, calcium, and magnesium to strengthen hair follicles and prevent damage.
Add more fruit, berries, and seeds to your diet
Goji Berries and Mulberries – tonifies the liver and kidneys in Chinese Medicine and nourishes blood. Also helps with dry eyes and eye health.
Dried mulberries 📸: Antoni Shkraba Studio
Apple, apricot, avocado, date, fig, grape, and longan – these fruits are all helpful to nourish blood in TCM.
Sesame seeds, flaxseeds, and pumpkin seeds – these seeds provide zinc, magnesium, and fatty acids to aid in healthy hormone production.
Try microneedling – microneedling can help with hair loss by stimulating follicles. It also increases absorption of skincare products by 2000%. Because of this increased absorption, herbal topicals for hair growth that contain Chinese herbs like He Shou Wu and apple stem cells are even more effective after the microneedling. Schedule an acupuncture + add on microneedling session for hair loss if you are curious to try it out.
There are many ways to address hair loss from both an external and internal perspective through the lens of Chinese Medicine. Obviously, everyone is unique and will not require all of these suggestions above. If you would like to schedule a consultation to receive more specifics, please schedule an acupuncture consultation.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. We may get a small commission when you purchase them. The cool thing? It doesn’t cost you a penny and supports our business as well as the small businesses that we use ourselves and love!
Facial cupping is a type of Eastern Medicine therapy in which small silicone cups are attached to the surface of the face to create a gentle suction with continuous movement. Unlike body cupping, there are no cupping marks left behind. In the eye area, the eye tissue is too delicate for sliding cupping so we use a technique called octopus kisses in which we apply suction to the cup for a second and then release the suction. Then move the cup to another area nearby and repeat. Both of these techniques are subtle and should not leave any marks like body cupping.
What are the benefits of facial cupping?
Facial cupping has many amazing benefits but here are a few that will encourage you to get your own facial cupping set today!
Increases blood flow and circulation – cupping immediately increases blood flow creating a glow to the skin and also promotes the formation of new blood vessels which deliver more nutrients to the skin.
Boosts collagen production – cupping stimulates collagen and fibroblasts which helps improve skin elasticity for firmer skin.
Relieves muscle tension – many people do not realize how much tension we carry in our faces, especially in the jaw and the temple areas. Cupping can help relieve tension headaches and TMJ pain.
Supports lymph function/reduces puffiness – the suction from the cups encourages and stimulates the lymphatic system to move fluid through the body thereby reducing excess fluid and puffiness. This naturally creates more definition in the cheekbones and jawline.
Where do I get a facial cupping set?
Schedule a session for facial cupping to experience a treatment and buy your own facial cupping set before you leave the office or click here to order online from The Facial Cupping Expert store where I was trained and certified.
There are so many types of facial cups on the market these days. I have a whole drawer full of ones I have tried 😝
I have finally found my favorite ones from @thefacialcuppingexpert. They are soft and super flexible. The flexibility means that when I squeeze them, my hands don’t have to work very hard. For anyone, like me, who uses their hands all day or has any kind of arthritis, these are the ones to use.
They are also non-toxic and odorless – contain no BPA, latex, lead, or phthalates. The skin is our largest and most permeable organ so we want to keep our tools as clean as possible – just like our skincare!
How do I use these Facial Cups?
I usually spend some time going over some basic techniques during your first facial cupping treatment so you can do your own treatments at home (which I highly recommend!). But it is still nice to have a little bit of a routine written down for you to reference so that you feel more confident in your techniques. After all, the benefits of facial cupping are compounded over time!
But first, a few basic rules:
Always use oil – oil helps the cups glide and will prevent marks/bruises.
Always keep the cups moving – again, this will prevent too strong of suction which causes marks/bruises.
Less is more – aim to do facial cupping ~3x/week. I know people get excited for results and want to do it everyday but your skin needs time to recover, especially as we age. For people like me who struggle to get to bed at a decent time already, I often focus on one small area (just eyes or chin) a few times a week and then do a full face routine maybe 3x/month. Not ideal but life is full!
Always clean your cups after every use – using warm water and soap will clean the cups without damaging them with harsh abrasives. You may need a little pipe cleaner brush or a Q tip to clean the tiny cup.
Do not cup over areas of inflammation/redness – this means irritated or red skin, broken blood vessels, sunburn, cystic acne, breakouts, sunburn, open wounds, itchy rashes, etc.
Ok, now for the basic routine:
Prepare the skin – after cleaning the face, neck and chest, apply a generous amount of facial oil to the face, neck and chest. There are so many wonderful oils to use so I encourage you to experiment to see which one you prefer. I will write another blog post on oils (I am always trying new ones!) but in my clinic, I mainly use these 3 oils:
Prickly Pear Oil – it’s simple, pure and is exceptionally rich in unsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, to benefit all skin types.
TOMA Sculpting Treatment Oil – this oil is rich in fatty acids to hydrate and calm the skin thanks to this powerhouse blend of grapeseed oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, and tamanu oil.
Start with lymphatic drainage – With the large cup, do flash cupping (flash cupping = creating suction on a spot and then immediately releasing it, also called “octopus kisses”) on the sternum 3x, then down the neck, repeating 3x on each side, followed by under the chin, repeating 3x.
Begin sculpting and lifting on the lower face – With the large cup, do sliding cupping (sliding cupping = creating the suction and then sliding from one point to another) under the jawbone from the chin to the ear, repeat 3x, then from the corner of the mouth to the ear, repeat 3x, then from the cheekbone to the ear, repeat 3x. Repeat on the other side. Do flash cupping in the area of the crow’s feet, repeat 3x on each side.
Continue sculpting and lifting on the forehead – Using the large cup, do sliding cupping from the eyebrow lines (or the “11’s”) up to the top of the forehead, repeat along the entire forehead 3x (or less if redness occurs). Do sliding cupping with the smaller cup over the eyebrow lines (essentially tracing the wrinkles).
Lift and open the eyes – With the small cup, do flash cupping (“octopus kisses”) along the orbital bone (the bone under the eye/top of cheekbone) from the inside of the eye to the outside of each eye, repeat 3x. Continue the flash cupping underneath the brow bone from the inside to the outside of the eye, repeat 3x on each side. Be careful in this area, the skin here is very delicate but it is especially helpful for a dropping eyelid.
Plump the lips – With the small cup, do the octopus kisses around the lips 3x and then repeat with sliding cupping around and even on the lips. Be sure to apply more oil if needed.
Focus on fine lines and wrinkles – Do flash cupping followed by sliding cupping over any areas of deep wrinkles or lines such as laugh lines or worry lines on the forehead or from the nose to the mouth). Be careful not to overwork an area – a little goes a long way.
Finish with lymph drainage – Because this routine moves fluid from the face, finish with a few strokes to assist the lymph system. Using the large cup, do flash cupping under the chin 3x and on the sternum 3x. I love finishing with a jade roller or a hydrating mist
I hope you enjoy this relaxing nighttime ritual!
If you are still curious about cupping, schedule a combination session of Acupuncture + Facial Cupping or book your AcuGlow™️ treatment today!
When I told people I was going to Sardinia for my 50th birthday, most people asked about its location. Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean off the west coast of Italy, south of the French island of Corsica. Although technically part of Italy, it is an autonomous region. Sardinia has its own official language, Sardinian, alongside Italian and several dialects across the island. It is an island that is very popular but still visited more by Europeans than Americans.
I had lived in Perugia, Italy in the late 2000s and needed some travel motivation to brush off my rusty Italian language skills. I have traveled throughout much of Italy but wanted to explore a new part of Italy. I also hoped to ease my boyfriend into Italian life for his first visit. I wanted him to understand the pre-Instagram Italia that I knew 20+ years ago so we chose the more rugged, laid-back Sardinia to visit instead of the more urban cities of Florence, Rome or Naples.
At first I debated between visiting Sardinia and Sicily, two Italian islands that I have never visited. But two vastly different islands! After watching the Blue Zones documentary on Netflix , I was intrigued by Sardinia’s cultural impact on health and longevity. I was also influenced by my wonderful aromatherapy mentor, Tiffany Carole, who now lives in Sardinia part time. After a while, all signs pointed to Sardinia and then began the planning!
Studying Italian
I dutifully studied Italian for months leading up to our trip in October using the Busuu app. I tried Duo Lingo briefly but I could tell the accents weren’t authentic and used AI versus native speakers. You can really hear the real accents of Italian speakers in Busuu. It definitely didn’t prepare me for the Sardinian language and dialects but it gave more confidence in basic Italian which helps a lot! Most of the people that we had contact with spoke English but it definitely helped knowing some basic phrases.
We chose to go in the Fall because of my birthday (I am a Libra!) and it’s off season! Summer is peak season and I had heard repeatedly about the overcrowded beaches in July and August. I definitely wanted to skip all of that! Thankfully, Sardinia is focused on protecting the beaches by limiting the number of people who can visit each day to try to prevent erosion. It is illegal to take sand from their beaches – this is the number one rule about Sardinia. It forms the basis of beach ettiquette which we will talk about later.
Renting a car
I highly recommend renting a car unless you want to just fly into Alghero or Cágliari and plan to stay in that area the whole time. There are beaches near Cágliari that you can reach with public transportation but you can explore much more with a car. But seeing the beaches near Cala Gonone would have been impossible without a car. In order to drive in Sardinia, you’ll need to get an International Driving Permit (IDP). If you are in the US, you just go to this AAA website for $20 but you can’t plan too far in advance as they can’t be issued more than 6 months in advanced of the desired effective dates.
We had a great experience renting our car from Discover Cars from Moventur. It was a small electric vehicle which was perfect for those windy roads in southeastern Sardinia. We only had to fill up once the whole trip (and actually, it was only half a tank of gas which was quite a savings given those Euro petrol prices! 🤪). The pick up and drop off at the Olbia airport was easy. There was European family in front of us that was upset about getting a smaller car than they reserved but I think that’s a problem all over the world with rental cars. If you want to know more details about renting a car in Sardinia, I highly recommend this blog post.
Choosing an itinerary
When you first see a map of Sardinia, it is tempting to think you can see it all by driving around the entire island. I definitely wouldn’t recommend this approach. It is a small island but the roads are not that well developed through the interior and the roads along the coast are super windy two-lane roads. My suggestion is to choose an area either based on where you want to fly into or your top reason or experience that you want for your vacation.
For me, I wanted to see those beautiful beaches, get in some hiking, and some snorkeling (for me) and scuba diving (for my boyfriend). I really wanted to see the Italian city life of Cágliari or Alghero but ultimately, I went with plane ticket prices and access to confirm our itinerary.
I found a great price on a plane ticket from Austin to Munich and then the flights from Munich to Sardinia were all to Olbia. Flying into Cágliari from London was an option as well as from Zurich. But when I realized we were traveling during Oktoberfest, I immediately knew we had to go to Munich and cross off a bucket list item I didn’t even know I had! Click here to find out more about our Oktoberfest experience in Munich 🍻
The three biggest towns with airport access in Sardinia are:
Cágliari – this city is the capital of Sardinia and located in the south of Sardinia. It is the largest city in Sardinia with 150,000 inhabitants in the city proper as well as 500,000 people living in the metropolitan area.
Alghero – this city is in the northwest part of the island and retains much of its Catalan character from Spanish colonization that it is nicknamed to tourists as “little Barcelona”.
Olbia – this city is on the northeast side of the island and is close to the ritziest part of the coast “La Costa Smeralda”, the emerald coast. The resort town of Porto Cervo is where you can see the yacht marina if that’s your cup of Champagne.
Our Itinerary
Day 1: Olbia to San Teodoro
We arrived into Olbia airport on Friday afternoon in late September from Munich (I’m skipping the Germany part of the trip but you can read about it here). After renting our car, we made our way to Residence Baia Salinedda in San Teodoro. The diving shop Blu Infinito Diving recommended it because it’s super close to the dive shop. It was a great location with great view of the water and a nice beach super close. But it is definitely in need of renovations, updates, and a new fridge. Read the google reviews on this place before you stay there to avoid any disappointment. The website shows a much newer, cleaner place. The restaurant and pool were closed when we were there as well so we had to stock up on coffee and essentials.
I was ready for a chill pizzeria for our first evening in Italy so we drove over near Punta Est to see the view of Capo Coda Cavallo and watch the sunset at Blue Bar San Teodoro. There is a nicer restaurant right next door but they have the same views so we settled for the laid back bar atmosphere for our dinner that evening and it was perfect.
Day 2: San Teodoro
We met at the dive shop around 9am (I love Italian time – no meeting at 7am here!) Unfortunately, the weather was windy and not ideal for snorkeling. We couldn’t postpone the diving and snorkeling for another day because we were continuing south to Dorgali and Cala Gonone for the next few days. I opted to lounge on the beach at Cala Suaraccia (also called the Butterfly Beach, Spiaggia Le Farfalle) since it was so choppy on the water. My boyfriend decided to go ahead and dive in the Tavolara and Molara Marine Park in spite of the weather which turned out to be a mistake. The visibility was low, the water was very cold and waves were rough. He wore two wet suits and some of the locals wore their dry suit. This area is supposed to be a beautiful place to dive but not for us today.
Map at the Blu Infinity Dive Shop
I enjoyed the porch tv on the beach. Locals turning their bodies to face directly towards the sun to sunbathe while tourists, like me, faced the water. I had my first local Sardinian beer called Ichnusa at the beach club while I waited for my boyfriend to return.
Busy beach with divers heading out for their 2nd dive
Bottle of Sardinian beer called Ichnusa
Later in the afternoon, we drove into San Teodoro to see the pink flamingos that hang out at the lagoon located behind La Cinta Beach. La Cinta beach is a free public beach with white sand that spans 5km. Tavolara Island is in the distance with shallow, clear water. We arrived later in the afternoon on our way to dinner just to see the beach & take some pictures. It was perfect timing because loads of people were leaving after spending the day there.
La Cinta Beach in San Teodoro
A pink flamingo in a lagoon in San Teodoro
I didn’t have the best zoom on my camera to be able to catch the flamingos very well but they were still super cool to see!
San Teodoro
We drove into San Teodoro to explore the town. Parking was easy – there is a public parking lot right as you enter the town. As we walked to the center (“il centro”), we walked passed a few restaurants, grocery stores, and gift shops. It was a good introduction to local items and where I first heard about mirto – the digestive of Sardinia.
It was an easy stroll into the city center where they were setting up for a concert. We found a sunny patio to get an aperitivo and listen to the music. As the sun was setting, the wind picked up and we recognized the Fall weather. People were in puffy jackets already in town and even though we knew September would be chilly, I had only a light sweater with me and my boyfriend didn’t bring a jacket at all. So when the sun started to dip, we made a move to find some dinner indoors.
We found a wonderful pizzeria called Il Diamante Pizza just minutes away from the center. The reviews were good but as we approached the packed pizzeria, all I saw were tourists. I always like to try to find a more local place to eat but we were hungry and the pizza did look good. It was delicious – the best pizza of the trip. Classic Napoletana pizza with the airy, light, and chewy crust. I asked for mirto after dinner but they didn’t have any so I was on a mission to try it!
Reminder about getting the check in Italy: Italians love to linger at dinner. There is no rushing or moving people out quickly to turn tables. Servers make a decent salary so they aren’t trying to get tips on tips on tips. When you want to check out, just go to the cashier and pay on your way out. If you ask for the check (“il conto per favore”), they will generally respond – “Potete pagare alla cassa” – you can pay at the cashier. Cassa is a good word to know for the word cashier. It isn’t common to tip in Sardinia. We still did – it’s a hard custom to stop as Americans – but most of them were confused when we did but also grateful.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at the grocery store for some supplies for the week. We got some of the campari and soda in the cute, small bottles as and some Sardinian beer as well as coffee, breakfast biscuits, granola, etc.
Ichnusa beer + Campari & soda
Day 3: San Teodoro to Dorgali
Unfortunately, by morning, my boyfriend wasn’t feeling great. The super cold and windy day on and in the water combined with being in San Teodoro without a jacket led to the classic TCM diagnosis of Wind Invasion. He was definitely sick – stuffy nose, cough, etc. Of course I tried to pump him full of the herbs but I mostly brought immunity herbs which don’t do much AFTER you get sick. We had to check out of the hotel that day and make our way to Dorgali where we were going to spend the next 2 nights.
On the way to Dorgali, we planned to stop at the beautiful beach known as “Little Tahiti” called Cala Brandinchi.
Cala Brandinchi / Brandinchi Cove
Cala Brandinchi is one of the beaches that has become very protected by limiting the number of people who can visit the beach per day. A reservation is required – you can reserve your spot 48 hours in advance here. You can use this website to reserve a spot for Cala Brandinchi and Spiaggia Lu Impostu. When we were there in September, we had to log in after 6pm two days before we wanted to visit. I think it changes based on the season so be sure to read up about when to book your spot before you go. Before you can book, you must agree to adhere to the rules before making the reservation. Remember, it is illegal to take sand from any beach in Sardinia. There has been so much erosion from tourists taking sand that they had to make it a law!
Cala Branchini Sign
We arrived at the beach around 10am to a mostly empty parking lot. There is a little footpath that passes a café with outdoor seating on the way to the entrance booth. Be sure to have a screenshot or the email with your reservation to show at the entrance. The beach wasn’t crowded when we arrived so we had our pick of places to lay out our towels.
Entrance to Cala Brandinchi
NOTE about Beach Rules in Sardinia: I had read that we weren’t allowed to have towels at certain beaches (La Pelosa Beach in NE Sardinia) because sand sticks to the towels. There are so many tourists that all that sand leaving on the towels causes erosion of the beaches. Just thinking about that shows you how popular some of these beaches are! And as I mentioned earlier, it is illegal to take sand from any Sardinia beach. At the famous La Pelosa beach in NW Sardinia, they do not allow you to even bring a towel to the beach! You are only allowed beach mats to reduce erosion. Even though towels were allowed at the beaches that we visited, we used beach mats anyway to help prevent erosion. We also used quick drying towels since we were traveling quickly between beaches and cities.
Clear water and white sand at Cala Brandinchi
Monte Tuttavista and Sa Preta Istampata
Sa Preta Instampata
As we headed down to Dorgali along the eastern coast, I wanted to stop off at Sa Preta Istampata. It is a massive rock which over the centuries has carved out a 20 meter circular hole or “window” by the wind. When I saw the pictures on google, I decided we had to go but I had no idea it would be such an adventure finding it!
Galtellì
I had read all the reviews about not using Google in Sardinia and especially to get to Sa Preta Istampata. Apparently, Google always wants to take you through Orosei to an unpaved road by a quarry that requires a 4×4. So, we took everyone’s advice and went through Galtellì. It started out ok as the quintessential, hilly Italian town. But as we continued to follow Google’s directions, we kept winding up and up and up through narrower streets of the town. We both were beginning to panic at the thought of another car coming towards us and having no way to turn around.
As we passed through Galtellì, the road remained narrow and steep. The views were incredible of the valley around us but without guard rails, it was getting stressful. I asked myself, “Is this how I want to die?”. My boyfriend continued to drive up and up and up – I mean, we couldn’t really turn around at this point anymore. There was no room for a 3 point turn and I did not want to reverse down the mountain. I kept trying to breathe but I envisioned the headlines – Dumb Tourists Used Google in Sardinia. The road finally stopped climbing and we reached a dirt parking lot with a sign about Sa Preta Istampata and the Bronze Jesus without running into another car. We had arrived!
Sign of Sa Preta Imstampata and the Bronze Jesus
We saw loads of cyclists heading up the road. As we were getting out of the car, we realized we had no idea what we were getting into with this hike. My boyfriend’s cough was getting worse. I really wanted to make our stressful drive worth it by seeing the view but we decided to forfeit the climb to Sa Preta Instampata and head on to Dorgali. I knew we would be passing back through here on our way back to Olbia so we’d decided to try again another day.
As we exited the parking lot, we noticed that to the left (the opposite direction from Galtellì), the road was paved and wide. I found it on Google maps and we decided to try it out. It was such an easy drive! It was a 2 lane road with no hairbin turns and no need for guard rails. We passed by the quarry as it dropped us off right at highway SS125. It took us a while to figure out that the road that everyone on Google reviews told us not to take has been paved!!! 🙌🏼
Our second attempt at Sa Preta Istampata would be much easier because we found the paved road access!! Now, onward to Dorgalì.
Note about Google Maps in Sardinia: I heard so many stories that we weren’t supposed to trust Google maps. I bought an old school Sardinia road map for the occasion but it still lacked the smaller roads. Google was actually much better than the map for at least seeing and knowing the smaller roads. It’s true you don’t always know the quality of the roads with Google though. If you are planning to go to more obscure beaches or trekking in the mountains, don’t just rely on Google or GPS. If you use Google, also use your common sense. Read the road signs (they have added more road signs for tourists!) and obviously, if you come to an impassible road, turn around!
Dorgali
We arrived in Dorgali with a rude entrance back into urban life – traffic, noise, and parking. And then oddly, a kid asking me in Italian if I had seen his donkey – to which I thought he was messing with me until we saw some donkey poop on our way to the hotel 😅
Parking
There were no designated parking area for the hotel so it took us a while to find a parking place. I encouraged my boyfriend to “Park like an Italian!” which means, park anywhere, in any direction, in any possible place. Parking in Italy is such good entertainment and Sardinian parking did not disappoint. We found out later that there was a public parking lot down the street from the hotel but our city parking spot was actually closer.
Our parking spot
Our parking spot was a bit creative on this incline- probably not where I would have parked in the United States but in Italy, it was fair game 😆
After we unloaded the car, I went back to the car to get something else and noticed that someone else thought we had a great parking spot indeed!
Our car with another white car behind our spot!
The terrace at Palazzo Cerchi
The B&B Palazzo Cerchi
We were staying at the lovely 5 star reviewed hotel called Palazzo Cerchi. It is located in the historic center of Dorgali in an historic building from 1894. It has undergone restoration to create this beautiful Bed and Breakfast (an amazing breakfast!).
The terrace, though, is what got me to book. I envisioned myself sitting on this terrace with an aperitivo taking in the view of the surrounding mountains at sunset. I booked it immediately for two nights after seeing the amazing reviews. It is also fairly close by car to the seaside village of Cala Gonone, which is the home base for visiting the most beautiful beaches of the Gulf of Orosei. Staying in Cala Gonone is a great option for most people with easy access to the beaches. But I was longing to experience a bit more of the Sardinian life with the locals. And indeed we did!
The bed in the hotel
The seating area of our hotel room
As soon as we got settled into our room, my boyfriend took a nap. I walked to the grocery store to buy some snacks for dinner – I love a foreign grocery store. And especially an Italian one that has an entire section dedicated to part of a Bialetti.
A section of the grocery store with every part for a Bialetti coffee maker
When I got back to our room with the goods, my boyfriend didn’t have much of an appetite so I sat in the hotel room, drinking my Sardinia wine (the famous Cannonau red wine from the region) eating my Italian snacks of bread, olives, proscuitto, and cheese while he tried to sleep….all while listening to the accordion music outside the window and wondering if my boyfriend would feel better for the boat ride in the morning.
Cannonau red wine from the Sardinia region
The Church Festivities
I am still not sure what kind of holiday or event was happening at the church that evening but let’s just say, Italians know how to party. The music and festivities were really ramping up. There was loud accordion music blasting (like it was in our room) until after midnight. Maybe it wouldn’t have been too bad if my boyfriend wasn’t super sick by this point and trying to sleep.
After listening to my boyfriend cough and cough, I decided to reach out to the host of the B & B via What’s App to see if by chance she had any cough medication. I knew that there were no pharmacies opened in this small town on a Sunday but also knew he really needed something to expedite his recovery and help him sleep.
The Herbalist
Maria (the owner of the B&B) asked me to come downstairs and provided some herbal tea for my boyfriend as well as told me about her herbalist friend who had an exhibit there today. In fact, when we arrived, I noticed lavender and herbs in the lobby of the hotel. Apparently, her friend makes essential oils and some other herbal lotions and potions. Maria introduced me to her as they discussed in Italian what symptoms my boyfriend was having.
When Maria was struggling to explain to me what her friend said in Italian, my rusty Italian started coming out. I was able to tell her that even though I couldn’t speak very well in Italian, I could understand it really well. After I took some rosemary oil in some hot water for him to inhale to help with his breathing, I returned downstairs to ask if I could buy some. The herbalist and I proceeded to carry on a conversation in Italian about herbs and the rosemary and Maria returned to ask, “why are you speaking to her in Italian, she is American?!” to which the herbalist replied, “She understands Italian!”.
Even though my jetlagged brain wasn’t helping my rusty language skills, I smiled as I walked away with my rosemary oil. Grateful to find an herbalist in my hotel room in a small Italian town to help bring some relief to my boyfriend and to be able to use my Italian language again so quickly.
Dried lavender with some herbal tinctures in the hotel lobby
Day 4: Dorgali to Cala Gonone….or not.
We were supposed to do a Boat Tour in Cala Gonone through Get Your Guide first thing in the morning. I had received a message from them through What’s App to confirm our excursion. I was able to message them to tell them my boyfriend was sick and to ask if we could get on the excursion for the next day. They were very generous and easily moved our reservation to the following day. I hoped he would be good enough to go!
The Pharmacy
In the meantime, I woke up early to walk to the pharmacy as soon as it opened. I was feeling that delightful mix of excitement and nervousness that I get when traveling internationally. It pushes me out of my comfort zone in a way that feels exciting rather than dread. I arrived at the farmacia and a lovely woman helped me right the right medications for my boyfriend. I had practiced some of my Italian, looking up some words, but ultimately, I got my message across and she sold me a day time formula for his cough and a nighttime formula for his cough. I thanked her profusely and returned to the room to give him his medication. God bless OTC meds! I was really hoping that if he slept all day and took his medicine that we’d be able to go on the boat excursion the next day.
Exploring Dorgali
I enjoyed my day exploring Dorgali, wandering through the city on my own, getting lost in the narrow windy roads. I reflected on my 20 something self that picked up and moved away to an Italian city to live without knowing the language, the culture, or anyone. I imagined what it would be like to pick up my life again and life in a city like this.
Small, steep street in Dorgali
I passed by a cafè and considered a coffee but saw all the old men in there staring at me and I was reminded of the strong machismo energy of Italian men. I wasn’t scared, I just knew I wasn’t really prepared to endure that part of the culture just yet. I continued to meander through the city taking pictures.
I made my way to edge of town where I had a great view of the surrounding mountains. I went to a park that had a statue of Jesus at the top with a view of Dorgali. The statue was nothing compared to the impressive copper one we would later see later near Sa Preta Istampata. But it did give me another view of the city where I also saw our B&B terrace next to the church!
an aqueduct in the city
The view of the church and the B&B with the beautiful terrace
Corte Barisone
The entrance to Corte Barisone
I made my way back to the B&B to check on my boyfriend and thankfully he was feeling better! We enjoyed an aperitivo on the terrance that evening watching the swarms of Sardinian warblers catch their dinner. We then headed to a restaurant, Corte Barisone, that our host, Maria, recommended. It was super easy to make a reservation through What’s App – we scheduled for 8pm – an early dinner by Italian standards!
The beautiful patio where we ate dinner
Corte Barisone serves a fixed menu of very typical Sardinian food (perhaps not the best place for a vegetarian). We enjoyed many typical Sardinian foods like culurgiones (similar to ravioli), pane carasau (a thin, crispy flatbread), and porceddu (roasted pork) as well as their house Cannonau red wine. It was exceptional.
The antipasto
Roasted Pork
The roasted pork was divine – succulent with super crunchy, crispy pork skin. This really is what pork should taste like – sorry, vegetarians & vegans!
The Sardinian flatbread called Pane Carasau
Cheesecake for dessert
Day 5: Cala Gonone & Boat Tour in the Gulf of Orosei
Cala Luna
Today was one of the days that I most looking forward to on this entire trip! I couldn’t wait to see the crystal-clear turquoise waters with the epic white sand beaches. As I mentioned, we made a reservation through Get Your Guide. The reviews of the dinghy excursion to Cala Mariolu and Cala Goloritzè were amazing. I loved the idea of being in a smaller boat with less people. It’s such a touristy area and I just couldn’t imagine getting onto a beach with 100 other people at the same time.
We received a What’s App message from Blue and Green Best who was organizing the boat tour the previous day. They told us where and when to meet. Even with the exact coordinates, we had some trouble finding the correct spot at the pier. And even though people tried to help us find them, it was still difficult. So, definitely get there early! I was able to message them when we were at the dock and she was able to find us. There were a few other people trying to locate the group as well.
The start of our excursion on the dinghy
Finally, we all arrived and met the Captain – a sweet, older Italian fisherman. He was our tour guide through the day, speaking Italian and Spanish and a bit of English. We were the only English speakers. The other 6 people were Spanish speakers so the majority of the tour was in Spanish with Italian mixed in. Thankfully, I had been also studying Spanish for my trip to Mexico City the month prior.
We arrived at the first beach, Cala Luna, before the hoards of tourists arrived. The Captain dropped us off and told us to meet back at the dock in an hour. It was still chilly in the morning and again, the water was pretty cold to us as Texans, but we wondered along the beach to get to the IG famous caves. It was very rocky along the beach. We watched lots of people take their picture in the cave but of course that’s not my style so I just captured what was happening naturally in the cave. I was surprised at how big and far back the cave went!
Cala Luna
Cala Luna white sands and blue water
Cala Mariolu
Cala Mariolu
Next, we headed down the coast soaking in the gorgeous views of the massive cliffs and the vast spectrum of blue and green colors. We arrived at Cala Mariolu where the crowds were growing. We didn’t explore as much at this beach, the beach was very rocky, big rocks instead of sand. Definitely bring your water shoes for this beach! And snorkel gear! It was nice to just walk into the water and snorkel. I just used my mask and didn’t bother wearing the fins. It’s not super full of sea life like in other tropical waters where there are coral but it’s still fun to see what lives underneath and with such good visibility, it’s hard to resist.
We stayed here for about an hour as well. Then met our Captain and boat at a designated pick up and drop off spot on the beach.
Cala Goloritzé
We just passed by Cala Goloritzé without stopping at the beach. The dramatic rock formation in the distance to the left in the photo is a famous rock climbing rock. There were actually climbers on the rock as we rode by but you can’t really see the person in my picture.
Cala Goloritzé
We anchored at a place nearby to swim and snorkel. The sun was warming up so I was able to pop into the water and swim for a bit but it was still chilly waters for us tropical lovers!
The rocky shoreline
The brave snorklers in the fisherman’s cove
Stalactites and stalagmites in a cave in Sardinia
We stopped off at a beautiful cove where the local fisherman anchor to have lunch, protected from the wind. Almost everyone jumped in the water to snorkel but we were just too cold. The Europeans were doing well with the cooler temps but to us Texans (and my still sick boyfriend), it just wasn’t hot enough outside to warm up after being in the cool water.
Our Captain busted out some local red wine and some biscotti for us before heading back to Cala Gonone. He offered refills on the wine and the cookies because he didn’t want to any leftovers!
On the way back, we passed by the Grotta del Fico but didn’t enter. There are other boat tours that will stop off there if you are interested. We had also heard the Grotta del Bue Marino (the Sea Oxen Cave) was super cool too. There’s a lot to do in this area so you just have to see what interests you the most!
After being on the water all day, I was also looking forward to eating some real food. We made it back to shore and found a very busy, touristy place to eat right off the parking lot of the pier. We shared some proscuitto and melon and some culurgiones before driving south to Arbatax.
Cala Gonone to Arbatax
Beautiful pink clouds over Arbatax from our AirBnB
The drive from Cala Gonone to Arbatax took about an hour and a half, not because it was far away but because it was such a windy road! We were soon being passed by motocyclists zipping along our route. Most were safely motoring but there were a few that were definitely there for some adrenaline rushes.
When we arrived at our airbnb in Arbatax, there was a hotel nearby with a bunch of Germans with their motorcycles. We realized there must have been some motocycle convention or just a bunch of motocyclists from Germany that enjoy the super windy roads of southeastern Sardinia.
After we got settled into the airbnb (it was gorgeous!), we walked to a restaurant with good reviews called Ristorante Pizzeria Acqulina but they told us it was a 2 hour wait without a reservation. It was already 8pm so we decided to check out another pizzeria down the street called Ristorante Pizzeria La Baia. They had a huge patio and tables for miles that were packed full of German speaking motorcyclists. Arbatax was definitely a popular spot amongst the motocyclist! People were chatting with each other across tables but since we didn’t speak German, we just enjoyed some people watching.
After we ate our pizza, I asked for some mirto – partly for general interest in bitters and partly to help me digest the pizza I had just inhaled. As all the German moto fans left, we were left there just waiting for the mirto to arrive. Time was passing and no one was even coming out to the patios anymore. I was just about to give up and go inside to pay our bill (remember you don’t wait for the check, you just go inside to the cashier to pay) when a server arrived with the digestive and said it was “sulla casa” (on the house). So, I guess they did realize that it was taking forever. But it was worth the wait for my first taste of mirto– slightly sweet but not cloying. Perhaps more like a good strong port than a anise style bitters.
We walked back to our airbnb and enjoyed the amazing balcony with the swings for a final nightcap and end to a wonderful day.
Patio at the Arbatax Airbnb
Day 7: Arbatax to Olbia
Arbatax
We wanted to explore Arbatax a bit before we headed back to Olbia. We strolled along the Porto Frailis beach near our airbnb and continued walking up the hilly street of Via S. Gemiliano along the coast. It was only about a 10-15 minute walk but you could also drive. There is a big free parking lot at the top.
We walked around the area to look at the views of the water all around and then headed over to the tower, Torre di San Gemiliano that we had been seeing from our airbnb balcony. The tower gave us some great views of the area and coast after climbing up straight up on 10 metal stairs.
The view of Porto Frailis from the Tower
Baunei
We decided to drive a different route north than how we drove to Arbatax so we could go through Baunei. It was only a 30 minute or so drive but as soon as we entered Baunei, we saw what a touristy town it was…and beautiful. I was mesmerized by this little town nestled into the side of the cliff. We stopped for a coffee (when in Italy!!) at a super cute café called Garage and took in the view.
Garage Coffee Shop in Baunei
View of the mountains from the Garage Cafè
They spoke English really well there and were definitely used to tourists. Meanwhile, 400 ft down the road where we parked, there was the local Italian café where they watched the “stranieri” (foreigners) get their strange coffee. Baunei was definitely a departure from Dorgali’s lack of tourism. The view from the patio where we sipped our cofee was amazing.
Our espresso and latté with a view in Baunei
We tried to stop at a brewery called Birrifico D’Ogliastra in Baunei that I had been following on Instagram for a while in preparation for our trip. Unfortunately, they were closed when we stopped by. It was right next to a soccer field with a view.
Brewery in Baunei
Soccer field surrounded by mountains in Baunei
We got back on the road and it wasn’t long after my delicious espresso that my heart and body were reminding me of my intolerance to caffeine. I needed some lunch.
Lunch at Sa Domu e S’Orcu
As we journeyed into the cliffs surrounding the Gorropeddu canyon, we saw tons of adventure tour groups. Sardinia is definitely the place for adventure junkies of all kinds. There weren’t a ton of restaurants along the main SS 125 road but thankfully, we found a lovely, local restaurant called Sa Domu e S’Orcu – Ristorante il Gufo. It is about 35 minutes from Baunei and about 25 minutes to Dorgali so it was a perfect midway stop.
Restaurant in the mountains
We didn’t want to have a huge meal so we decided to share plates of the local pastas: culurgiones di Urzulei ai funghi porcini (culurgiones of Urzulei; typical Sardinian ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms) and gnocchi della casa (homemade gnocchi with sausage sauce and ricotta cheese). It was the perfect amount of food to settle my caffeinated body and mind and provide nourishment for our revisit to Sa Preta Istampata.
the delicious sardinian ravioli with mushrooms
a plate of gnocchi with tomato sauce
Sa Preta Istampata
We continued north through Dorgali on SS 125 until we found the turn off to Sa Preta Istampata near marble furniture places like Blue for Marble and Petra Eden. We avoiding the way through Galtellí this time and just took the road that, according to many bloggers, was no paved. We had no trouble with this route and found it so much easier than through Galtellí. It was much wider and paved and direct. So definitely go this route (unless you really want the adventure of the other way!).
We were still planning to hike up to the arch until we saw an older man with his three Brittany dogs at the entrance. We said hello to him in Italian while we were changing into our hiking boots. He asked us what we were doing. I explained that we were going to hike up to see Sa Preta Istampata. He immediately said, “No, don’t do that. Take the car”. I laughed and he said it again. “Take the car” in the simple, matter of fact, Italian way.
We were nervous about taking the car up there with super windy, narrow roads but he said the turns weren’t too bad even though there were a lot of them. It’s only a 10 minute walk to get to the arch after you park. Then, he told us to get back in the car and continue up the windy road until you get to a really large carpark. From the large parking lot at the top of the hill, it’ll take another 10 minute hike to the statue of the Bronze Jesus. From here, you can see the water on one side and the mountains on the other. It’s a beautiful view. He also said, “When you get to the bronze Jesus, say a little prayer” and genuflected while shrugging to show his respect as a non- practicing Catholic.
two of the brittany dogs with the nice man
He was a delightful man. He told us he found his dogs after they were abandoned by local farmers when they discovered they weren’t good hunters. In that area, if the dogs aren’t good hunters, they will be left behind. It was a good reminder of the history of the region. That although it was a beautiful country, it was a harsh, isolated place in which to survive.
We thanked the man for his advice and returned to our car. We journeyed up the windy roads and thankfully didn’t run into any other cars coming down the one-lane road!
Map of the Sa Preta Istampata
Hike to Sa Preta Istampata
the Bronze Jesus
We drove up further towards the Bronze Jesus and indeed there was a huge, flat parking lot as the man has said.
huge, flat parking lo
Located on the peak of Monte Tuttavista is a bronze statue of the Christ that is a reproduction of the Cristo Ligneo. It towers over the entire valley and the village of Galtellì. The views from the statue of Christ and the peak are incredible, and spans all the way to the the Gulf of Orosei.
Bronze Jesus Sculpture
I felt victorious as we approached the Bronze Jesus! We actually made it here after our initial failed attempt. I said a prayer thanking God for meeting that wonderful man who guided us here (and also saved us a boring 3 hour hike).
Orosei
Hotel Bidderosa
We got back in the car and headed to our final hotel on our Sardinian journey near Orosei. We arrived at Hotel Bidderosa to a completely empty hotel. There were some people cleaning up in the restaurant area but the doors were locked. We parked and found an open door and eventually found someone to help. It was a strange greeting for a hotel.
Someone managed to get us checked in and told us the restaurant was closed during our stay because they had just had a big event. But it was deserted. We only saw one other lone traveler once. It was a decent hotel but the eerie, empty vibe was a bit disconcerting.
The patio of the quiet, empty hotel
We unpacked, got settled, and then showered for our last dinner in Sardinia. I wanted to find a grocery store to get some local gifts. Because we were techincally outside of Orosei, things closed early and we barely made it in the grocery store. I was happily roaming the aisles of the grocery store (my happy place!), when the big front doors closed! We hurried to check out so that we didn’t keep them waiting.
We bought local honey, local torrone, and pasta typical for the region. I looked at the Mirto but didn’t buy any because I wasn’t sure it would fit in my suitcase. I regretted not buying some as soon as I got home. Mirto is nowhere to be found in Austin, nor Sardinian torrone, which I proceeded to eat it all after I got home instead of gifting it to my dad like I planned. Oops.
I love an Italian grocery store!
one of the local pastas
Bottles of the digestive Mirto
Last Dinner in Sardinia
We found a pizzeria near by for our last meal. We definitely ate a lot of pizza on this trip but I needed to get my fill of proper pizza! I also got some mirto at the end of the meal and some tiramisu to go. The server had to clarify that I wanted the mirto “for here” but the dessert “to go”. We were too full to eat the tiramisu but hadn’t yet had it on our trip and we thought it would make a great breakfast before our flight back to Germany the following morning. And it definitely was.
Our delicious breakfast tiramisu
All in all, Sardinia was an amazing place. Rustic and rugged mountains with the beautiful, clear sea. It was all that I wanted it to be.
Holistic microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a minimally invasive procedure that involves a small pen with 12 tiny, sterile needles passed over the skin to create micro-injuries in the skin’s surface to treat fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars. With minimal downtime and a series of sessions only needing to be performed once per month, this is the perfect natural, non-toxic treatment for busy people.
Microneedling helps to promote collagen growth to improve skin texture and enhances the absorption of skincare products up to 2000%, which is why clean products are crucial with this procedure. It can also promote hair growth on the scalp and reduce acne scars on the face.
A holistic microneedling treatment includes body acupuncture to address the root cause of your concerns and provide an extra level of relaxation.
Recommended Frequency:
Depending on your goals, microneedling works best in 3-6 sessions for lasting results. Each follow up session is scheduled 4-6 weeks apart. For maintenance, schedule tune up visits every 6 months or other issues can be addressed with another series of treatments.
Aftercare:
Redness occurs for 8-12 hours after a treatment – 100% pure aloe vera can help reduce the redness.
No exercise the day of the treatment as sweating can irritate the face.
No make up the day of the treatment
Avoid sun – use mineral sunscreen for a week post-microneedling
Wash face with only warm water (no products)
Go back to regular facial routine the day after the treatment.
Avoid retinol, vitamin C serums, glycolic acid or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) for at least a week after treatment.
We do not recommend microneedling if you currently:
Have had a facelift, filler, or botox injections within the past 6 months
Have used retinol, vitamin C serums, glycolic acid or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) within the past week.
Take blood thinners
Receive chemotherapy or radiation
Have moderate to severe skin conditions (psoriasis, rosacea, eczema, active infection, warts, active herpes outbreak)
As the temperatures hit over 100* this week, it’s important to stay hydrated so our body’s systems work optimally. Everyone knows the importance of drinking plenty of water during the summer. We often forget how food can affect our hydration levels too.
Spicy Foods
Spicy foods are typically found in humid, hot climates of the world. The capsaicin in chili peppers causes us to sweat, thereby lowering our core body temperature. This can be helpful at times but too much spicy food can actually cause dehydration because it actually warms up our body first and then cools, depleting our yin, or fluids in the body. Eat spicy foods in moderation during the summer and increase foods that are more hydrating to preserve your body fluids.
Hydrating and Cooling Foods
Foods that are more cooling in nature provide the body with moisture to hydrate the body to keep the body temperature lower. Most people inherently reach for herbs like mint, basil, and dill in the summer which are more cooling in nature. Foods like pineapple, watermelon, and raspberries are also more hydrating. Adding cucumber to water or having hibiscus mint tea are wonderful and refreshing ways to stay hydrated. Other foods to include this summer are leafy greens, avocados, celery, jicama, radishes, daikon, tomatoes, berries and figs.
One of my favorite summer salads is this Jicama, Radish, and Pepita Salad. If you are one of those cilantro haters (so sad!), you can replace the cilantro with mint and/or basil and it’s still delicious!
Electrolytes
What are electrolytes?
Electrolytes are minerals in your body that carry a negative charge which helps balance water and fluids in your body. If you have ever had muscle cramps, your doctor may have recommended some potassium. I recommend magnesium to everyone for muscle cramps and tightness. These are examples of common electrolytes.
Electrolyte drinks
Electrolyte drinks like Gatorade that are easy to drink to replenish minerals loss from sweating. They can be very helpful in the summer. As we age, it’s also difficult to stay hydrated so if you don’t use electrolytes regularly, summer may be a good time to try. Unfortunately, electrolytes can be full of sugar (or lately stevia or other types of sweeteners) so be careful if you have glucose issues. Coconut water can also be a very good natural electrolyte or you can make your own using coconut water. I have tried a lot of different electrolytes and prefer these Keto drops without any sugar or sweeteners. I also love the electrolytes from Pique Life which does contain monkfruit as a sweetener but it’s light and citrusy without the stevia aftertaste. It’s marketed as a beauty tonic but I like the tiny, individual packages that I can bring with me when traveling or anywhere on the go.
Moxibustion is a form of heat therapy that has been used for hundreds of years in Chinese Medicine. It is an integral part of Chinese Medicine. In fact, the Chinese term zhen jiu, which in English is translated to acupuncture, actually refers to acupuncture and moxibustion. Zhen means to puncture the body with a needle and Jiu means to use fire to heat acupuncture points.
Photo by Chinese Medicine Podcast Podcast from Pexels
Moxibustion is the process of burning the dried leaves of an herb called mugwort (also called Artemesia vulgaris, Ai Ye or Folium artemisiae). It produces a strong heat that penetrates deeply into the muscles and joints. It can be applied directly to the body on various acupuncture points or indirectly. The indirect method most commonly used is a moxa stick. A moxa stick is a large cigar of rolled mugwort that is lit and held a few inches above the skin. Other direct methods shape the moxa into the shape of a cone or a grain of rice. Like in the photo above, it can also be placed on a slice of ginger which is then placed on the body.
How does moxibustion work?
The warmth from the moxa penetrates deep into the body to warm and move Qi and blood. It increases circulation and blood flow to the body. In spite of the heat, it is very useful for reducing inflammation.
What does moxa treat?
It is wonderful for a number of conditions:
joint pain
menstrual cramps
digestive issues such as IBS and diverticulitis
immunity and allergies
fatigue
gynecological and fertility conditions
turning a breech baby
Is moxa good for everyone?
Unfortunately, the smell of moxa can be very strong, even with smokeless moxa. It may not be appropriate for people who are sensitive to smoke. Although it can be used for allergies to open up sinuses, it may make some allergies worse. The smell is unique but can often be confused with marijuana. Most people in my clinic find the smell pleasant and calming. Even those with allergies can tolerate it briefly with the right ventilation and air purifiers.
Endometriosis is an often painful condition where the tissue that normally lines the uterus grows outside of the uterus. This endometrial lining can be found almost anywhere in the pelvic area and responds to hormones cyclically just like it would in the uterus. When the tissue is in the uterus, it is eliminated by the body during the menstrual cycle. For the endometrial tissue that is in other parts of the body, it breaks down but cannot be excreted from the body. This creates a cycle of chronic inflammation and the formation of scar tissue. These adhesions may block the fallopian tubes and contribute to fertility issues. Chronic inflammation produces an immune response causing a lack of response to progesterone during the luteal phase which can also affect fertility.
Symptoms of endometriosis may include:
Painful periods
Heavy or abnormal menstrual flow
Painful urination/bowel movements during period
Infertility
Back pain during menstruation
Pain during intercourse
Diarrhea, constipation or other digestive issues
Six Ways to Reduce Endometriosis Pain and Inflammation
Get acupuncture – Chinese medicine considers endometriosis a condition primarily of hormone imbalances and lack of blood flow (or blood stagnation). Acupuncture can help reduce inflammation, improve blood flow, and regulate hormones. Herbs and supplements help with hormone regulation at different times during the cycle. Because endometrial tissue responds to the same hormonal changes that trigger your period to start, it’s important that the treatment plan and herbs adapt with this cycle.
Eat foods that increase blood flow and circulation – one to two days before the menstrual cycle starts (or whenever you start to feel pain or cramping), focus on moving blood and increasing blood flow. This will reduce cramping and pain and make the menses flow more smoothly without clots. If you are think you may be pregnant, avoid blood moving foods until you start your menses. Here are a list of foods to help increase circulation:
shallots
scallions
chives
leeks
ginger
cayenne
spices like cumin, cardamom, dill, rosemary, oregano, nutmeg
watercress
horseradish
sour cherries
plums
cauliflower
broccoli
brussel sprouts
beet
cabbage
Warm the abdomen to increase blood flow and reduce cramps
Frankincense and myrrh essential oils move stagnation. Place a few drops of each and mix into a carrier lotion or oil and rub the stomach in a clockwise motion, lifting up on the right side of the body and down on the left side of the body.
A castor oil pack can also help soften adhesions and reduce pain from cramping. Roll the castor oil on your stomach and then place an old flannel pillowcase or t-shirt over your stomach that you are willing to stain. Apply a heating pad for 15 minutes.
Moxibustion is also wonderful to increase circulation and blood flow. Moxibustion is a form of heat therapy in which dried mugwort (Artemesia argyi or A. vulgaris) is burned on or near acupuncture points. The warmth from the moxa warm and move Qi in the body. See a licensed acupuncturist to teach you how to use moxa at home!
Arvigo Mayan Abdominal Massage – this is a specific manual therapy technique used to help align the organs of the pelvic cavity and reduce adhesions. It can help regulate cycles, reduce painful cramps, and improve fertility.
Add supplements to your diet
N-acetyl-cysteine (NAC) is an amino acid precursor to glutathione, an antioxidant. It reduces circulating testosterone and insulin, as well as cholesterol. It decreases abnormal cell growth and inflammation. Some multivitamins contain NAC or buy a specific supplement like Nutrient 950 with NAC by Pure Encapsulation. Take at least 600mg/day for at least 3 months.
Fish oils – Omega-3 fatty acids are helpful in reducing overall inflammation in the body as well as pain reduction.
Vitamin D – Vitamin D reduces inflammation in the body and is crucial for proper immune system functioning.
Reduce/Eliminate Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals(Xenoestrogens) – There are many chemicals in our environment today that affect our endocrine system. For women with endometriosis, xenoestrogens can be particularly problematic. These chemicals mimic estrogen in the body and can block the real estrogen from doing its work. Xenoestrogens are a prime cause of hormone imbalance. Dioxins are toxic chemicals created as by-products of many industrial processes. They have been linked to an increased risk of endometriosis and irregular menstrual cycles. They are found mainly in the fatty tissue of animals. Be sure to buy organic and low fat as much as possible and limit consumption of beef, dairy products, and eggs . Other chemicals that can disrupt the endocrine are:
Nicotine
BPA (in plastics)
Phthalates (in plastics)
Triclocarbans (in antimicrobial soap)
Eat an anti-inflammatory diet – reducing the inflammation associated with endometriosis is crucial for reducing pain and other symptoms.
Fish Oils
Curcumin
Bromelain
Quercetin
Increase fruits and vegetables and reduce red meats, dairy, gluten, and poultry
Be patient as you make some of these changes! It can take 3-6 months for noticeable shifts in hormones and your menstrual cycles. It can take up to a year for big improvements with endometriosis. Get the support you need to be persistent. It takes time but you can reduce the symptoms of endometriosis.
As most of you know, I love to travel. During the peak of the pandemic, I explored many of the state and national parks in Texas instead of traveling internationally. As the pandemic shifted in 2022, I started dreaming of traveling again. And getting a passport stamp in my recently renewed passport. I have some family and friends that travel often and as I asked them for advice on where to travel, a clear country emerged – Iceland.
I first heard about Iceland and Reykjavík during the late 90s when my college friends were traveling to Europe on a $500 plane ticket if they did a layover in Reykjavík. It sounded so mysterious…. and cold. I knew it was a great place to chase the northern lights – but again, it sounded so cold. I thought of it, like many people, as a country covered in ice and snow all the time. Some say that Greenland should have taken the Iceland title with an ice sheet that covers 80% of the country. Glaciers only cover around 10% of Iceland. Iceland is more properly nicknamed Fire + Ice due to its glaciers, volcanic hot spots, and geothermal hot springs. As I started researching these facts, a clear season to visit Iceland emerged – Autumn.
Why Autumn is the best time to visit Reykjavík, Iceland
Northern Lights
Summers in Iceland have 15-22 hours of sunlight daily, depending on the month, so there is no chance to see the northern lights. Summer is the time to hike and drive around the Loop 1 road that circumnavigates the entire country and other F1 dirt roads that aren’t accessible during the winter months. But as the continual light of summer recedes in September, the daylight and darkness balance out and allow for the aurora borealis spectacle. There is an opportunity to see the northern lights while also enjoying plenty of sunlight to hike and see waterfalls throughout the day. Winter is also a wonderful time to see the northern lights with most winter days only having 5 hours of sunlight if the cold without sunlight doesn’t deter you!
Cost
Expensive is one of the first words uttered when you mention a trip to Iceland. I happen to live in Austin, Texas which is not known for its affordability so sticker shock is slightly dependent on where you currently reside. But Iceland can be expensive, especially during the summers which is peak tourist season. After looking into the benefits of each season to visit Iceland, Autumn sounded even more appealing when I learned it was a much cheaper time to travel. Some of the hotels that I looked at were 2-3x less than in the summer months. The fall season was definitely looking like the best time for us to travel.
Weather
Summer is definitely the best time of year to go if you are looking for the warmest and driest time of year. Or if you want to drive the entire Ring Road around the country, which is very difficult in the winter or even shoulder seasons due to wind, rain, and snow. Temperatures in the fall are actually quite mild with the average high temperature in September in the 50s and 40s in October. We traveled in the last week of October 2022 and returned in early November. The temperature was typically around 45* and even at night hovered around 32* F. Now, Icelandic wind is a different story all together and gives you a wind chill that we never measured – except in expletives preceding the word cold.
There is much variability and quick shifts throughout each day during the Fall. It’s said that you may experience all four seasons within a single day in Iceland in the fall. We experienced about three gorgeous, sunny days and clear skies at night but then as we traveled south to Vík and further east towards Vatnajökull Glacier and Höfn, we experienced the rain and wind that is so stereotypical of Iceland. But with proper attire (keep reading! I address this in the next section), it is definitely manageable.
What to Bring
Preparing for Iceland weather with the right clothing and gear is essential. Again, the fall is known for experiencing all the seasons in a single day so you really need to prepare for anything. I think the biggest part of my trip was stocking up on winter wear. Many people who aren’t from Texas may already have things like fleece-lined leggings but honestly, I had never even heard of them! But now that I have them, I have worn them once or twice in Austin. Here are my favorite items that I was so glad I had with me:
Clothing & Gear
Rain jacket – This is essential. Especially if you are going to the Seljialandsfoss waterfall where you walk behind the waterfall – you do NOT want to get drenched. I have a GoreTex one from years ago that I love but had to get some rain pants! I recommend Sierra Trading Post for discounted items.
Heavy puffy winter jacket – I got this CIRQ long puffy jacket from Sierra Trading Post. It was on final clearance so there were no returns but it turned out perfect. Again, this jacket isn’t something we normally need in Austin so I didn’t want to spend a ton of money on something I wouldn’t wear again.
Thick fleece-lined leggings – these are really thick & very warm. They are bulky for someone like me without any hips but I still loved them for the warmth and they fit well enough. I brought 2 pairs of these with me and they were amazing. I wore these and then layered the rain pants over them before our hike to the falls. My pants were dry after the hike. In the mornings or at night, I could layer another thinner pair of leggings under them to stay even more warm but honestly, the thick fleeced leggings were great just by themselves.
Light fleece-lined leggings – these were also my staples that I got from Costco for $10. Like I said, I could wear these as a base and add the thick ones on if it was really cold. We also had a few sunny 45° days where I was able to just hike in these leggings.
Socks – wool socks are a must!! I love these SmartWool Saturnsphere Crew Socks I bought several pairs and basically wore these every day. Since these specific ones aren’t available anymore, I found these because you really do want it to be 100% wool. It looks like there are a lot of other socks that are blends but it’s the wool that will keep your feet warm and dry so definitely read about them before you buy! I found this length to be more versatile. I had 1 pair of ski socks that went over the calf but they were almost too much for me with the fleeced lined pants I keep talking about.
Fleeced lined hiking boots – Warm hiking boots are a must for Iceland. I almost took my regular hiking boots which are good in water but I wanted something warmer. I purchased these and it was the best purchase ever! These boots were amazing and I wore them almost every day. They were warm, comfortable, and supportive.
Water proof boots – I love the company Børn for comfort and quality so when I saw they had a functional and stylish pair of waterproof boots, I had to have them. They were the boots I wore all around Reykjavík and still love wearing them if it’s raining.
Tripod for Phone or Camera- You will definitely need a tripod to capture the northern lights. It can be a super small, cheap one like this one that I brought or a fancier/taller one like this one. Because mine was so small, I propped it up on rocks to get my pictures of the lights. Not as convenient as the tall one but I managed to get some pics and saved tons of room in my suitcase! If Northern Lights photos are your jam, you may want the bigger one but for me, the small one was enough to keep my camera still to get a good shot. And I just used my Samsung Galaxy phone which worked really well. My boyfriend brought his regular nice camera but also got some good ones with his iPhone.
Swimsuit – you need a swimsuit to experience the Icelandic bathing culture.
Travel Towel – consider bringing a quick drying towel like this one if you are planning on popping into a hot springs while on a hike. It is way too cold in the Fall to continue to hike wet after getting into a hot springs!
This list is not exhaustive but it will give you some good ideas of what worked for me while I was there in the Fall!
Driving
Driving in Iceland is not for everyone, especially during the fall and winter season. There are many blogs about renting cars in Iceland and driving in Iceland. The round-a-bouts are intense with different right of ways than is typical and the terrifying one lane bridges will haunt your mind for years to come. One evening after we entered a bridge, we happened upon a semi-truck coming towards us that required us to reverse with another car behind us to get out of the way! The blinding lights covering the top of the truck as well as usual headlights ignited our nervous systems like a bolt of lightning. Thankfully, the speed limit is fairly low all through Iceland and strictly enforced to prevent such accidents. We made a rule right after this to only drive during the daylight hours.
Our Iceland Itinerary
Day 1: We arrived at Keflavík Airport at 6am and rented a car from Icerental 4×4 – it was a 2022 Subaru XV Automatic. They scooped us up in a shuttle with other tourists getting cars and took us to their little office 30 minutes from the airport. It was evident we were in a strange, new country when he started giving us instructions about the car:
Don’t feed the horses through the window (the horse will kick the car!)
Do not drive into the lake (people do it! – he said when we said we wouldn’t)
Park angled into the wind
When it’s windy, let one person open the door and get out first, then the other person so the wind doesn’t whip through the car and rip off a door.
When it’s windy, open the door just slightly so the door doesn’t rip off the hinges (it happens!)
Use headlights all the time while driving – even during the day
Our first priority after getting the car was coffee. We drove to Brauð and Co (brauð means bread in Icelandic) and learned a key lesson: if a place seems dark and closed, try the door anyway. We waited in the car for about 15 minutes trying to figure out where else to go because we thought it was closed. There were no lights or people inside. Then we finally saw someone walk in and come out with bread! We quickly jumped out of the car, got our pastries and coffee in the nearly dark café, and then made our way into Reykjavík. We spent the day roaming around the sleepy city. It was windy and cold but sunny. It was a great time to wander the streets and see the sights without the hoards of typical tourists.
Sun Voyager Sculpture in Reykjavík
We strolled along the coast to see the Sun Voyager sculpture.
Church in Reykjavík called Hallgrímskirkja
The famous church in Reykjavík called the Hallgrímskirkja was also beautiful to see in the morning light with very few tourists.
Rainbow Street in Reykjavík
I was hoping to meet the IG famous Reykjavík cat named Baktus (@baktusthecat) but we missed him. The rainbow street from the church down to Baktus’ neck of the woods was empty so we took advantage of a good photo opportunity without the crowds.
We found a cute little place called Sandholt to have breakfast (and tried some Icelandic moss tea – yum!). We drove to the lighthouse and the Reykjavík Botanical Gardens. Around 2pm, we couldn’t make it any longer with our jetlag and drove to our hotel Hlid Fisherman’s Village about 20 minutes outside of town. It’s definitely a remote place and there’s no front desk or lobby. The restaurant connected to this hotel is located in another village. There is a hot tub and a sauna and a nice area with chairs to watch the sky and listen to the waves crash on the shore. The beds were comfortable and even though I wanted to look for the northern lights, we crashed pretty early to catch up on sleep. Unfortunately, the mini fridge was broken but thankfully, it was cold enough outside so we just left our food in the car for the night.
Day 2: We woke up refreshed after a great night of sleep ready to explore Iceland’s nature. We drove the Golden Circle which is possible to do in 3 hours but I would definitely recommend taking more time. We drove (so many roundabouts!!) to Thingvellir National Park. In lceland, there is always a parking lot and a meter to pay for parking (using a credit card to pay – we didn’t use any cash the whole time we were there). There was a constant inflow and outflow of people, cars, and tour buses.
The Great Geysir Erupting in Iceland
Next was the Geysir Hot Springs. Definitely a tourist destination with several restaurants in one building. When we walked through the trail to the geysirs, we saw a bunch of people poised with their cameras ready for action. We waited a few minutes when we saw the big geysir erupt. It is more impressive than the pictures are able to show. Thankfully, it erupts every 5-7 minutes instead of 35-120 minutes like Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park in the USA. We had to watch it 2-3x from different angles before moving on through the park. It was awesome to see the visible thermal activity of this magical country.
Gullfoss waterfall in Iceland
The last stop on the classic itinerary of the Golden Circle is the Gullfoss Waterfall. Nothing could prepare me for what I would feel seeing this waterfall. The noise is relentless. The profound force of nature is palpable. The beauty and power of nature combine when you see the light of the rainbow over the falls from certain angles. Such magnificent views!
Lobster pizza in Álftanes, Iceland
We stopped off for dinner at a super cute pizzeria close to our hotel called Álftanes Kaffi When I asked the server which pizza was the most popular she mentioned a pizza with red onion and mushrooms topped with avocado salad made of avocado, spring onion, small tomatoes, arugula, lime, pepper and a little mayonnaise. She also mentioned a four cheese pizza with jam included as a side. I eventually opted for the lobster pizza and my boyfriend had the bacon pasta. I ended up eating the lobster off the pizza and then eating the pizza and told myself I would be a little more adventurous with Icelandic flavors in the upcoming days. I highly recommend this restaurant for the good food and cute, laid-back setting.
Northern Lights
We went back to the hotel after dinner with plans to look for the northern lights in the evening around 10pm. I had been listening to a podcast called All Things Iceland in preparation for our trip (I highly recommend her podcast!) where Jewells gives loads of great information about the best time to see the northern lights. She mentioned that although she has seen them at a bunch of different times, the best times are supposed to be between 10pm-3am. So, I had it in mind that we would go back outside around 10pm to start trolling for the lights.
But around 8pm, I had to run back out to the car to grab something. As I shut the car door, I looked up at the sky to ponder the wonder and beauty and to plead with the sky to give us a show. As I looked into the sky, I saw something subtle in the lighting, almost like when you notice the shading of the stars when you see the Milky Way. I ran inside and asked my boyfriend to come outside because the sky “looks different”. It was definitely not the northern lights but it did seem like it was trying to shine. He clearly thought I was just being too hopeful but he slowly got up and came outside. He also thought it was something unique or different, not colorful at all, just a slightly white, cloudy pattern in the sky. We both grabbed our camera and started trying to capture what we were seeing. As our cameras started to pick up on a greenish color, we started to get excited! Our cameras were telling us this was the northern lights!! We just wanted our eyes to start seeing it too! Eventually, as we watched the sky longer and more hotel guests were walking around, we started to see the colors in the sky. It was still more subtle than what we both were expecting but it was a pretty phenomenal experience. Some people after seeing the lights feel satisfaction, like they can cross it off their bucket list. Me, on the other hand, just got a taste for it and was obsessed with the lights for the rest of the trip, trying to catch another evening of dancing lights.
Northern Lights in Iceland
Northern Lights at Hlid Fisherman’s Village in Iceland
Day 3: The next morning we headed southeast from our hotel towards the rainy, coastal village of Vík. Iceland is a magical land of waterfalls and we really got to see them on this day. We got drenched as we walked behind the Seljialandsfoss waterfall (the trail runs behind the waterfall) but it was absolutely worth it. I highly recommend getting some good quality raingear for this hike. Some people were just wearing rain panchos but were soaked as they were walking to the parking lot. In the summer that may be ok, but I wanted to stay dry in the cold weather. We put on our jackets and rainpants for the short walk and when we got back to the car and took them off, I was amazed I was dry underneath. (I had a good quality jacket like this one and these waterproof joggers which were perfect for this short walk). There is a very touristy coffee trailer here where you can get some pastries, coffee, and some sandwiches.
Seljalandsfoss waterfall
Behind the Seljalandsfoss waterfall
Afterwards, we drove another 30 km (about 30 minute drive) to Skógafoss Waterfall. There is a metal staircase that leads to the top of the waterfall and then a 4.2 mile out and back trail that takes you past more than 20+ waterfalls. I highly recommend this trail – very few tourists venture beyond the top of Skógafoss to see this gorgeous scenery. The waterfalls were endless!
Skogafoss Trail
Skogafoss Trail in Iceland
Vík
We continued towards Vík from Skógafoss which was another 34 km (or 30 minute drive) on Ring Road 1. We stopped off at the gorgeous overlook point in Dyrhólaey with black beaches and the iconic arch. We arrived there around 4pm so we were able to catch some of the magical lighting as the sun was beginning to set. This was perhaps where we felt the wind the most so be very mindful of your cars doors at this look out point!
Arch at Dyrhólaey in Iceland
Then went to the famous Reynisfjara black sand beach made up of volcanic rocks with basalt columns and dangerous sneaker waves.
Reynisfjara Black Beach in Iceland
Reynisfjara Black Beach in Iceland
Basalt Columns at Reynisfjara Beach
Day 4: We captured a sleepy morning view of Vík í Myrdal from Reyniskirkja church before grabbing some delicious coffee at Skool Beans Cafe.
Skool Beans Coffee Shop in Vík
Church in Vík
Glacier hike
We did a glacier hike on Skaftafelljökull in pouring rain. It was my first time stomping around in crampons and hiking with an ice axe. Unfortunately, the caves flooded so we weren’t able to see the ice caves. But that’s late October in Iceland, folks. If ice caves are on your bucket list, definitely go to Iceland after the second week of November to ensure more ice than slush.
View from Fosshotel Vatnajökull
The weather delayed us from getting off the mountain early so it was dark on our 2 hour drive east to Höfn. We stayed at the Fosshotel Vatnajökull on the road to Höfn. As we passed by several other Fosshotels along the way, I wished we had booked a closer hotel. But we pushed on while deciding to only drive during the day for the remainder of the trip. We arrived at our hotel still cold and wet from our glacier adventure even though I had immediately changed out of my hiking boots, threw on some new, dry Smartwool socks and slipped into my favorite pair of winter boots for the drive. We showered and had dinner at the hotel so we didn’t have to get back out on the rainy, foggy roads. Höfn is famous for its lobster but this evening, I had the famous arctic char which lands somewhere between salmon and trout. My boyfriend ordered the lamb for the first time on our trip even though everyone told us lamb burgers would be ubiquitous and more common than beef. It wasn’t until the next morning when we were able to appreciate the floor to ceiling windows capturing the beauty of the surrounding glaciers.
Day 5: My bucket list plan was to go to Diamond Beach near Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon at sunrise but the weather had turned stereotypically Icelandic so we ventured the 12 minutes into Höfn to have breakfast. I still hoped for a brief moment of clear skies to catch the view on the shore of the four glacier tongues descending Vatnajökull. Unfortunately, the fog prevented us from seeing much. We headed west on Ring Road 1 towards Diamond Beach for the next hour.
Glaciers at Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon
Even without the sun shining and the reflection of the ice, I thought walking along the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon was spectacular. The blue color of the icebergs and the reflection in the water was unlike anything I had ever seen.
Glaciers at Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon
The contrast between the volcanic black sand and the broken icebergs washing up on shore makes you feel like you are in a black and white film. As with most of these wonders in Iceland, there’s a car park and you only need to spend about 20-30 minutes, depending on how picky you are as a photographer! I had read other blogs where people were a little disappointed in the beach. If I drove 5 hours from Reykjavik and then back in a day, I might not think it was worth it. But if you plan it well, it is definitely worth it.
Diamond Beach
Diamond Beach
We then leisurely made our way back towards Vík stopping at Svartifoss Waterfall in the Skaftafell National Park. To see the waterfall, there’s a 2km hike from the visitor center. It’s about 20 minutes west of Hof off Ring Road 1. The hike from the visitor center was an easy 30-45 minute out and back walk, depending on how many pictures you take and if you need to slow down on the inclines. Along the trail, you’ll see another waterfall as well as Svartifoss from a distance. The curtain of the waterfall isn’t particularly big or impressive but it drops into a pool with loads of hexagonal basalt columns in an amphitheater-like formation.
Svartifoss Waterfall
Svartifoss Waterfall
We drove an 1 hr 45 minutes back to Vík, stopping at a local brewery, Smiðjan Brugghús, for a delicious beef burger and craft beers before returning to our hotel for the evening. It was at the brewery that we learned from the cheeky names of the beers how much rain Vík gets annually. I loved the spacious rooms at the Volcano Hotel but there wasn’t really a place outside to sit to try to view the Northern Lights. We hung outside for 20 minutes at a time, standing and gazing at the stars until we got too cold or too uncomfortable to keep watch when we would pop back in trying not to wake up the other residents. There were also a few bright lights to light the path into the hotel and along the road, understandably. The lighting wasn’t conducive to see the Northern Lights but it was definitely a lovely place to stay.
DAY 6: Our last day in Iceland! The only thing on the agenda today was the Blue Lagoon which was 3 hours away from Vík. We bought our tickets ahead of time to reserve our spots as recommended. You must arrive within the hour of your reservation time so we didn’t want to miscalculate our arrival time. We had coffee and breakfast at the hotel before making our way westward. We did plan time for a detour to Kerið volcanic crater after seeing people at this attraction on our drive around the Golden Circle. It is about 15 minutes north of Selfoss on Route 35. There is a small entrance fee of 400 ISK (about $3 USD) to help the landowners preserve and protect the crater. It was a cold, windy but sunny day so we quickly walked about the outer rim of the crater. There are great views even if you don’t want to walk around the whole crater.
Kerið crater
From the crater, we drove towards the Blue Lagoon. We tried to stop off for our first Icelandic hot dog at a stand along the coast but it was closed. We continued on along the coast to a beautiful old church Strandarkirkja.
Strandarkirkja Church by Angel’s Bay
It is a Lutheran church built in the 12th century by sailors who bargained with God for their safe return to land after nights of enduring stormy seas. The bay is named Engilsvik (Angel’s Bay) after an angel that guided them to shore. We were fortunate to get some amazing light to capture some beautiful pictures of the church and the coast – we even saw a few seals lounging in the cold ocean!
Angel’s bay
Iceland’s Bathing Culture and Etiquette
We continued on towards the Blue Lagoon which has been on my bucket list since I first heard about it and its healing properties for ezcema and other skin disorders. Some people assume it is a natural springs but in fact, it is a man made geothermal spa created by water from Svartsengi power station nearby. This is a great example of Iceland’s super power – repurposing waste products from a power station to protect the environment and provide greater health for their people.
Blue Lagoon in Iceland
The Blue Lagoon is a very tourist place but definitely worth all the hype. We got the premium ticket which included three face mask treatments and the use of the bathrobe. The basic entrance fee included the standard silica mud mask, a towel, and one drink. In the summer, I think you’d be ok without the bathrobe but I did appreciate it in the cool air. There is a lot of talk about bath house etiquette in Iceland and I highly recommend reading about it before you go but because of the touristy nature of the Blue Lagoon, it is not as rigid as I was expecting and I think I was one of the few who was taking it seriously.
When you first arrive, you will receive a wristband which functions as your key to your locker as well as the gates. Proceed to the lockers rooms (men and women’s locker rooms are separate but there is a meeting place as you exit the locker rooms where you can meet up with the rest of your group). Place all valuable items in the locker room using your wristband to lock it up. Since one of the major rules of Bathing Etiquette is to shower naked before you enter the Lagoon, I carried my swimsuit to the shower rooms while wearing my robe (a benefit of getting the robe). Use the conditioner in the showers to place on your hair before you enter the Lagoon. The waters are rich in silica which can make your hair very dry and brittle. It seemed like most people just chose to keep their heads above water and kept their hair as dry as possible but I didn’t want to risk it. As you enter the lagoon, there is an area where people leave their robes (shoes are left in the locker rooms) and we realized we might not be using the same robe in the flurry of robes. There is a side entrance to the lagoon where you can slowly wade into the water to acclimate and then exit the building while half covered. If you are brave, you can just walk out the main door and the outside air slaps you as you walk briefly outside before you enter the water. Your choice! But the contrast of hot springs to cold air has never been in my constitution so I chose the side entrance.
We first went to grab a drink and then to visit the face mask bar for our first mask. She helped us choose the order of the masks. It was much bigger than I expected but was so fun and relaxing! There is a three drink maximum to make sure people stay hydrated and safe. There were some birthday parties and larger groups which were louder but in general, it seems like everyone was there to chill and experience the healing waters. We brought our Go Pro and tried to take pictures but the steam from the waters made most of them too cloudy. Still, it was nice to have a picture and to not worry about damaging my real phone. I saw lots of people using the water protector covers over their phones but I wasn’t going to risk that and do not recommend it. I’d say if you really want a picture, you can take a few pictures with your real camera or phone and return it to the safety of the locker room. If you want to take pictures in the water, go for a waterproof one! The silica and other minerals in the water can damage your camera as much as the actual water.
Blue Lagoon in Iceland
We spent about 2 hours in the water which was plenty of time. We showered afterwards to get the minerals off our skin. The locker rooms had hair dryers and all the spa lotions and potions (which they sell at the gift shop). I had to dry my hair so I didn’t get wind invasion from the cold air! Even when trying out other culture’s rituals, I still subscribe to the fundamentals of Chinese Medicine – no wet hair in the cold air! As we exited the spa, we walked the long way around to the parking lot as the sun was setting. It was beautiful and a wonderful last evening in Iceland.
We made out way back to our air bnb for the night and unsuccessfully tried to catch the Northern Lights one more time. We flew out the next morning after a magical trip! ✨ Bless Bless, Iceland!
Inflammation is a healthy, normal part of the body’s mechanisms to heal tissue & protect itself. It is the immune system’s response to trauma and infections. If we eliminated all inflammation, we would no longer have the protection we need to heal our bodies. In an acute injury or infection, the nervous system regulates the immune system to keep the inflammatory markers in balance. If this balance is off, it can lead to allergic reactions, autoimmune disorders, and chronic pain. Most chronic diseases, like heart disease, arthritis, cancer, depression, and Alzheimer’s, are linked to chronic inflammation. It’s important to support the body with the right nutrients to lower stress, improve sleep, and strengthen immunity.
Inflammation from a Chinese Medicine Perspective
Inflammation is often thought of solely as a heat disorder because of the redness, swelling, and pain. While it is often treated as a heat disorder in Chinese Medicine, especially when acute, it isn’t always the primary issue.
Congestion and Stagnation of Qi and Blood
Chronic inflammation and stress can cause stagnation of qi and blood. “If there is free flow, there is no pain; if there is pain, there is lack of free flow” is a defining principle of Chinese Medicine. Eating foods that move qi and blood are essential to increasing circulation. This increased circulation provides the body with a fresh supply of blood in areas of inflammation and stagnation. Foods like pepper, eggplants, onions, garlic, ginger, and turmeric increase blood flow.
Cold Bi (Obstruction) Syndrome
Conditions like arthritis (called Bi (obstruction) Syndrome) may have a cold component. If the pain feels worse in cold weather, it is important to warm the body instead of clearing heat. Turmeric would be a great choice due to its anti-inflammatory properties. It is a very warming herb, however, that may not be great for everyone. It may be too warming to take everyday for red, swollen joints that get worse in the summer. Control the dosage to maximize the benefits without causing more heat in the body. Some people may take it daily during the winter months and reduce the dose or frequency during the hot, Texas summers.
Dampness
Dampness is another aspect of inflammation. For those experiencing water retention, bloating, swelling, nasal congestion and drainage, treatments in Chinese Medicine would focus on drying the damp. Humidity in our external environment and climate as well as the foods that we eat can affect the dampness in our bodies. Allergies with mucus and phlegm and digestive disorders with loose stools and bloating are a great example of this type of inflammation. Again, there may be a heat or cold component but it is crucial to target the dampness in the body as well. Celery and spirulina are great to drain damp and reduce swelling in the body. To provide a better balance, take these cooling foods with warmer spices like ginger or turmeric.
Yin Deficiency
In many chronic diseases, dehydration and lack of essential fatty acids can lead to yin deficiency. Yin is responsible for moistening and cooling the body. Deficiency of yin plays a huge role in continued inflammation. It is important to nourish yin by eating foods that are high in good fatty acids like omega 3s and gamma linoleic acid (GLA). Evening primrose, black currant seed and hempseed contain GLA and foods such as salmon, mackerel, herring, sardines and tunacontain omega-3 fatty acids. Drinking half your body weight in ounces of water (for 150 lbs person, 75 oz or ~9.5 cups of water) is important for all body systems to function optimally.
In summary, inflammation is unique for every body. Choose the anti-inflammatory foods that work best for you and your condition. There are many food lists that list tomatoes as anti-inflammatory. Indeed, they have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties but are part of the nightshade family which contain alkaloids like glycoalkaloid solanine that have pro-inflammatory properties. Some people find their inflammation gets worse with nightshades and others don’t notice a difference. Experiment with these foods to see what works for you! But these are my top picks for the 10 foods to reduce inflammation:
Nearly 70 percent of the fresh produce sold in the US contains residues of potentially harmful chemical pesticides. Many of these pesticides remain on the fruits and vegetables even after being washed and peeled. To avoid these pesticides, people are choosing organic produce. Unfortunately, many of us cannot afford to pay the high prices of organic fruits and vegetables for all of our needs.
Thankfully, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) makes it easy for us to decide when to buy organic and when to choose conventional fruits and vegetables. Every year, they make a Shopper’s Guide based on tests by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. It provides us with a way to reduce our exposure to pesticides while staying within our budget. The Clean Fifteen is a list of 15 fruits and vegetables that contain the fewest concentrations of pesticides while the Dirty Dozen is a list of 12 fruits and vegetables that contain the highest concentration of pesticides.
We can then choose organically grown produce where the pesticides are high (the Dirty Dozen) and choose conventionally grown produce where the pesticides tend to be low (the Clean Fifteen). So save money for a house like Tim Gurner suggests by buying those cheaper conventional avocados for your avocado smash toast!
The Clean Fifteen and the Dirty Dozen Lists from 2020
The Clean Fifteen
Avocados
Sweet Corn
Pineapple
Onions
Papayas
Sweet peas (frozen)
Eggplants
Asparagus
Cauliflower
Cantaloupes
Broccoli
Mushrooms
Cabbage
Honeydew melon
Kiwi
The Dirty Dozen
Strawberries
Spinach
Kale
Nectarines
Apples
Grapes
Peaches
Cherries
Pears
Tomatoes
Celery
Potatoes
The full list of produce tested can be found here.